Alternatives to mold release spray

I have been struggling with mold release spray.  No matter how I use it, I can't seem to get the resin gems out of my molds without bending them.  Therefore, I decided to look into some alternatives to mold release spray.

A thread on Cosplay.com gives a few interesting alternatives.  One user recommends coating the mold with Vaseline.  The original poster, however, said the Vaseline did not work inside a ceramic dish.  Another poster says Vaseline is too thick and leaves lines in the gems.  I might try this because I only need to get the gems out to test hardness, not to use in jewelry.

Sprays recommended by other posters include Pam, WD40, and silicone oil (available at automotive stores).  Still another poster suggests lining molds with plastic wrap, particularly Glad, when using polyester resin.  I like this suggestion because my final project should not include molds at all, so I can simply place my pieces onto a sheet of Glad.

All of the above suggestions are mirrored by other websites, including Answers.com, though eHow takes the cooking spray alternative one step further by stating regular cooking oil rubbed into the mold will act as a mold release.  As this is the simplest of the alternatives, it is the one I will probably try first.

• Cooking oil using ??? cooking oil.  Results: 

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

References:
"Alternative to resin mold release? - Cosplay.com." Cosplay.com. Cosplay.com LLC, 4 July 2011. Web. 3 Aug. 2014.

Moore, Carolina. "Alternatives to Commercial Resin Mold Release - Crafts.Answers.com." Answers.com. Answers, n.d. Web. 3 Aug. 2014.

Turner, Paige. "Resin Mold Release Substitutions." eHow. Demand Media, Inc., n.d. Web. 3 Aug. 2014.

Resin practice #6 log

Here is a log of resin practice #6

12 May 2014

• 3:23 pm – sprayed mold with release spray.
• 4:00 pm – release spray dried.
• 4:00 pm – put resin and hardener bottles in warm tap water.
• 4:03 pm – measured 1 dram of resin into measuring cup and weighed {3.6 grams}.
• 4:04 pm – used a toothpick to pop bubbles from pouring.
• 4:05 pm -- measured 1 dram of hardener into same cup and weighed {3.4 grams}
• 4:06 pm – stirred using tongue depressor for 2 minutes.
• 4:08 pm – poured into clean measuring cup.
• 4:08 pm – stirred using clean tongue depressor for 1 minute.
• 4:09 pm – placed under light bulb and used toothpick to get bubbles to rise to the surface.
• 4:18 pm – poured into prepared mold.
• 4:19 pm – set under lamp to pop any new bubbles.
• 4:22 pm – used toothpick to remove floaters.
• 4:28 pm – used toothpick to try to pop subsurface bubbles.
• 4:52 pm – resin has thickened, taking out from under lamp.

13 May 2014

• 4:15 pm – removed jewels from mold.

15 May 2014 @ 3:24 pm – Even after allowing to cure for another 2 days, the resin was still bendable.  Also, there were still dozens of bubbles, although, I must say, they aren't as noticeable as before.  I only saw them when I put the jewels in front of a black surface.

So, I am going buy a brand new kit and start from scratch with the goal of getting a hard jewel again.  If I succeed in that, I will then concentrate on removing the bubbles.  I will also attempt jewels made from a different brand of resin to compare outcomes.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say “No” or have a number in front of it.

Resin test #5 results

Mold Release Spray:  The two larger jewels did pop out with much less pressure than previous attempts.  However, the smaller jewel would not budge; I still had to use the freezer technique.

Bubbles:  All the jewels still had many tiny bubbles inside.  I went back to read the instructions and the company's website.  According to these documents, I am using the products when they are too cold.  Really?  My apartment is in the 70s, and it has been 90 outside lately.  For resin test #6, then, I am going to follow the instructions and place both the resin and the hardener in warm water for 3-5 minutes before pouring.

Hardening:  Test #5 is still rubbery.  I don't know if heating is going to solve this problem, but I don't want to make too many changes at once.

The next round of practice, then, will be to start with warmed chemicals and see what happens.  In the meantime, it is on my schedule to search the Internet tonight for a heat gun.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Glue cost benefit analysis

The previous testing has revealed three products that are capable of gluing an acrylic resin jewel to a plated metal finding.  These three products are E6000®; Devcon 2 Ton®; and Glass, Metal & More™.  What follows is a cost benefit analysis of the products.

Availability:  When it comes to availability, the E6000® beats the other two products hands down.  While E6000® is, at least for me, available at Hobby Lobby, Michael's, and Jo-Ann, I would have to order the other products on line if I wanted to use them.

Ease of Use:  The E6000® and the Glass, Metal & More™ are both simple glues, whereas Devcon 2 Ton® is an epoxy.  The 2 Ton® has two parts that need to be mixed together.  If improperly mixed or applied, failure will result.  The E6000® requires application to both surfaces, but the Glass, Metal & More™ requires application to only one surface.  With all of this taken in mind, the Glass, Metal & More™ wins the battle for ease of use.

Discomfort:  As stated in the original review, the Glass, Metal & More™ caused me sinus discomfort, so it is eliminated from this category.  The discomfort of the Devcon 2 Ton® is in the extra steps and tools (mixing, mixing stick, disposable mixing palate, etc.) required for its use.  The E6000® wins this point due to perceived complete lack of discomfort.

Price:  A 2-ounce tube of the E6000® cost me $2.97.  A 2-ounce tube of the Glass, Metal & More™ cost me $7.59. A 1-ounce supply (two ½-ounce tubes) of Devcon 2 Ton® cost me $5.47.  Double this to $10.94, and we see that per ounce the E6000® is the more frugal purchase.  All of these prices are from Amazon.com, and all are from the same invoice.  Therefore, it cannot be argued that different stores had different prices.  What the E6000® sells for at a brick-and-mortar store is not taken into account.

Conclusions:

• Gem-Tac™, although recommended, failed to provide adhesion between an acrylic resin jewel and a plated metal finding.
• Devcon 2 Ton® should not be considered for use when gluing an acrylic resin to plated metal.  It is too hard to find and too expensive, and it can fail if not mixed properly.
• Glass, Metal, & More™, while being the only product to claim it glues acrylic and metal, is hard to locate and can cause sinus discomfort.
• The E6000® was successful in adhering acrylic resin to plated metal with the only downside being the need to roughen and apply it to both surfaces.

At this point in time, my choice is the E6000®.  The benefits of availability, price, and lack of discomfort exceed the costs associated with needing to apply it to both surfaces.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

E6000® results

The 72-hour cure period for the E6000® glue finally ended, so here are the results.  I tried to twist the finding off the jewel but to no avail.  It was then dropped on the table several times, and the glue did not fail.  As with the other tests, I threw the piece across the room.  This resulted, unfortunately, in the finding breaking.  Therefore, I am unable to perform the concrete drop tests, as performed on the other glues.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Resin test #5

Here are the particulars for resin test #5.

• I shook the mold release spray until it was frothy.
• I sprayed my mold.
• I rubbed the spray into the mold using my vinyl glove-covered finger.
• I allowed the spray to dry, as per the product instructions.*
• I poured 3 grams of resin into a plastic cup.
• I poured 3 grams of hardener into the same cup.
• I used a wooden stick to stir this for 2 minutes.
• I poured the mix into a clean plastic cup.
• I used a clean wooden stick to stir this for 1 minute.
• I poured the mix into the prepared mold.

*This could be one of my mistakes during previous tests.  I had misread the bottle.  I was wiping the mold release spray, which is supposed to be done when conditioning the mold.  To apply mold release, the spray must be allowed to air dry.  It was taking so long to dry, in fact, that I was able to iron my muslin shirt fabric and fold my laundry.

Above are pictures of bubbles in the jewels after pouring.  I have taken the mold and placed it under my desk lamp.

This is so cool.  I can actually see bubbles rising to the top and popping.  There were a couple of stubborn bubbles that didn't want to pop, so I stabbed them with a toothpick.  This is very encouraging.  I can't wait to see the results when I get home from work.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Resin test #4 results

The resin test #4 results are quite a mixed bag.

First, I used one mold with mold release spray and one without.  The one with mold release spray did not simply release, as one would expect.  Instead, I had to push them out from the bottom.  This was the same technique I used on the mold without release spray.  The conclusion, then, is that the mold release spray I am using (Castin' Craft® Mold Release/Conditioner) is ineffective.

Second, there are just as many bubbles in the jewels from the sprayed mold as from the unsprayed mold, as you can see from the pictures below.

The square jewel (on the left), which came from the sprayed mold, seems to have more numerous bubbles than the round jewel (on the right), although the round jewel seems to have larger bubbles. 

Third, the jewels are still malleable.  There should be no bending once the resin has cured.  It should be a hard plastic.

Clearly, there is still something I am not doing correctly.  As I recall from resin test #4, the weight of the hardener was greater than the weight of the resin.  Also, I forgot to use a clean stick in the second mix.  These could account for the non-hardening, which, in turn, could account for the failure of the jewels to simply pop out using the mold release spray.

There is still also the problem of the bubbles.  Remembering back to the bubble fixing video, it was mentioned that some folks will put their resin under a lamp to get the bubbles to rise to the surface.  The video recommends not doing this because dust from the lamp could fall into the resin.  However, I have a lamp and don't yet have a heat gun, so I am going to put resin test #5 under my desk lamp to cure.  Later tonight, I will have to search the Internet for heat guns and a different mold release spray.

For now, I am off to do resin test #5.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Resin test #4

Preparation for resin test #4 meant finding better measuring cups.  What I was hoping to find was those shot glasses with measurements painted on the side.

This is the best I could find for now, but I will keep looking for those shot glasses.  (I thought for sure Dollar Tree would have them.)  The smallest unit the cup measures is 1/2 tbsp., so unfortunately, I will be mixing 3 times the resin as in previous batches.  Before I make a batch, though, I used water to verify the two cups are accurate, at least to each other; and they aren't, damn it.  They aren't even accurate to my 1 tbsp. measuring spoon.  That settles it.  Next time I buy from a scientific equipment store.  At least that should be more accurate.  I am going to proceed with this test as a bubble test anyway.

Speaking of bubbles, I am beginning to wonder if my mold release spray is causing some of the bubbles.  When I spray it on, there are several bubbles on the surface of the mold.  I decided to check a piece of resin that was made without mold release spray.  Sure enough, the bubbles are less prominent, although they are still present and noticeable.  I should run to the hobby store and get another mold to test that theory, since I am going to be making 3 times the resin anyway.

Okay, bought another resin mold for $3.  Not really happy with it, as it is two small circles and one big one.  However, it should be big enough to do the next resin test.  First, I prepared the mold of squares with mold release, and what do you suppose happened?

Bubbles!  This could be a source of some of the bubble problems.  Hopefully, this test will prove I don't need the mold release spray.  Next, I measured out the chemicals.

As you can see from the pictures, I poured a little more hardener (on the right) than resin (on the left).  We shall see if the jewels come out hardened or not.  I did the 2-minute mix, poured the mixture into a clean cup, and stirred another 1 minute.  Unfortunately, I forgot to switch to a clean stick.  Damn!  That means if this doesn't work it could have been something as simple as changing the stick.

Here is the result:  a very bubble-filled resin.  I tried to pull some of the bubbles to the surface, but it only seemed to make things worse.  Every time I put the stick into the mixture I created more bubbles.  The bubble problem is going to be more difficult than I thought.  In the future, I may use a different resin product to compare bullagenesis (bulla = bubble; genesis = forming).  I filled the molds with this bubbly brew.  However, another problem was encountered during clean-up.  It seems the rubbing alcohol I use to dilute and clean the resin also diluted and cleaned off the cups' exterior measuring markers.  :::sigh:::  If it isn't one thing it's another.

So, in 24 hours I will check the jewels to see how well they solidified.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

References:
"Medical Terminology - A thru Z." GlobalRPH. David McAuley, Pharm.D., 10 Dec. 2013. Web. 4 May 2014.

Palmer, A. Richard. "Zool 250 - Greek & Latin Roots A - C." UW Courses Web Server. University of Alberta, 8 Jan. 2006. Web. 4 May 2014. . Rpt of Bailey, B. 1999. Bull. Malacol. Soc. Lond. 32:6-7. Print.

Devcon 2 Ton® test #2 succeeds

The 12-hour cure period for the Devcon 2 Ton® epoxy has ended, so the strength tests began.  I am happy to report that test #2 was successful.  I picked up the piece and twisted it with my hands.  The jewel did not snap off, unlike test #1.  I then dropped it four times into a table.  There was no loosening of the epoxy.  I tossed it across the room, yielding the same result.  Now came the tricky part.  I went outside and dropped the piece onto the concrete sidewalk.  This time I purposefully dropped it jewel first to avoid breaking the finding.  The piece was still intact.  Lastly, I went to the second floor balcony and again dropped it onto the concrete below.  There was no release of the glue, although it looks like a small chip came out of the resin jewel.

The test #1 failure was, then, most likely due to human error rather than product performance.  Following an exact procedure resulted in proper adhesion.  However, this is the same result I got with the Glass, Metal & More™, which is less of a hassle (no mixing involved).  I will have to look up the prices and availability of both products and do a complete cost-benefit analysis.  For example, one cost of the Glass, Metal & More™ is a burning of the sinuses from the smell.  This will be examined in more detail when the final product test, for the E6000®, is completed late Monday afternoon.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Glass, Metal & More™ succeeds

Yipee!  I have my first glue test success!  The Glass, Metal & More™ is the first glue that did not pop apart when I twisted on it.  I attempted to rip the jewel off 4 times, and it never budged.  Therefore, I started dropping it on the table several times.  This had no apparent impact.  I threw it across the room, and it remained together.  Then my evil thoughts turned to concrete.  I went outside and dropped it on the sidewalk.  The glue remained intact, although the finding itself broke.  Pending the outcomes of the remaining two tests, I would currently recommend Beacon Glass, Metal & More™ as the glue of choice for acrylic resin to metal findings.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Gem-Tac™ fail

The test of the Gem-Tac™ went pretty much as expected.  Even after a cure time of 27 hours (3 hours more than recommended), the two pieces came apart with a crisp snap.  Gem-Tac™ is definitely not the product I want to use to make my jewelry.  Now I have to come up with some project(s) to use up the bottle.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Devcon 2 Ton® test #2

As with the resin mixing test, I took my time and documented every step.  The first step was preparing the pieces to be glued.

Using 320 grit sandpaper and the same finding as in the failed 2 Ton® test, I pressed hard to get as much silver off the surface as possible.  Above you will see the before and after pictures.

Using the same sandpaper, but in a clean spot, I also forcefully scratched the entire bottom of the jewel from resin test #3, bubbles and all.  I got a white powder I did not notice on my previous jewel sandings.  I hope that is a good thing.  Above are the before and after pictures.

I tore off a piece of wax paper, as I did in the original test.  (The 2 Ton® instructions say to use a "clean, disposable surface.")  Trying to "squeeze with equal presure from bottom of tubes so that bead diameters are uniform," I squeezed out and weighed the resin (picture on the left) then squeezed out and weighed the hardener (picture on the right).  I think the hardener looks bigger than the resin, but the weights are similar.

I took a wooden craft stick (about half the width of a popsicle stick) and began to vigorously mix the two parts together.  Counting in my head one one-thousand, two one-thousand, the epoxy became very sticky at about seventy one-thousand.  As there is nothing in the instructions on how much time to mix, I decided stickiness was a good indicator to stop.

I went to apply the resin to the surfaces and noticed I hadn't cleaned them of the sanding dust.  As quickly as I could, I used alcohol on both and dried them.  Using the same stick as I used to stir the epoxy, I applied a very thin coats to the jewel and the finding.  They slid around quite a bit, so I decided to apply pressure to the seam.  I did this for about fifteen one-thousand.

You can see in the picture on the left how much glue oozed out of the seam on my first attempt.  The second picture is my current attempt.  There is no oozed glue.

Now is just the waiting game again.  All three possible solutions to my previous fail were enacted here.  I roughed up the surface more, I measured and mixed more precisely, and I spread the glue very thin.  In 12 hours or so, I will discover if this was enough or if maybe the Devcon 2 Ton® epoxy just doesn't cut it as a jewelry glue.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Devcon 2 Ton® fail

The Devcon 2 Ton® epoxy has a cure time of 12 hours, so 12 hours after putting together the acrylic jewel and the finding, I wanted to test the strength.  I took the jewel in one hand and the finding in the other and, with a simple twist of the wrists, broke the two apart.  There was almost no hold provided by the glue.  It is as if the epoxy was just another layer of resin instead of a glue.  All that roughening of the surfaces was a waste of time because the dry epoxy showed all the scratch lines from the finding.

Why did it fail?  Several reasons come to mind.  These include not roughening the surface enough, measuring and/or mixing the epoxy incorrectly, and use of excessive epoxy on the two surfaces.  The last part can be easily tested, and the first part would require use of a rougher sandpaper grit.  The middle part, however, will be hard to accomplish; this difficulty was the major argument against using a 2-part epoxy in the first place.

For test #2, then, I will weigh the epoxy to get equal amounts, I will mix it for a longer amount of time, I will spread it thinner on the two surfaces, and I will scratch the hell out of the surfaces as well.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture. Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Resin practice #3 results

Bubbles, bubbles everywhere, unfortunately.  Here is the result of resin practice #3.  The resin did harden correctly on the second test, so I am pretty sure it was a technique/measuring error on practice #2 that resulted in rubbery resin.  This means I am moving in the correct direction.  Even after coating the mold twice with mold release spray, I still had to put it in the freezer to get the jewels to pop out.  While frustrating, my current plans do not involve use of a mold.  My plans do, however, require a bubble-free result.

Resin test #4 will be done in smoother measuring cups to observe that result.  If that result still has excessive bubbles, I will have to search the town (and probably the Internet as well) for a heat gun.  I would hate to spend $20 for the one at Hobby Lobby.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Resin practice #3

Since my previous attempt to make resin turned out to be rubbery, I am going to give it another try and take pictures along the way to document for me what I did or may have done wrong.  So, here we go.

I set an alarm clock for 2 minutes, which is the amount of primary stirring time.

I made sure the release spray on my mold had dried.

I used some rubbing alcohol to clean out 2 measuring cups. So, even though I did not end up taking pictures of the entire process (It is hard to stir and photograph at the same time.), planning on doing that made me much more aware of what I was doing.

Think about the mold release spray, I decided to read the bottle again.  It seems I missed a step last time around.  One is supposed to wipe the mold once the release spray was in, kind of like wiping cast iron with oil.

With the wiping done, I measured out resin to the 1/2 tsp. line on the measuring cup.  As this was sitting on my jeweler's scale, I got a weight of 2.5 grams.

I then measured out 1/2 tsp. of hardener on top of the resin, as per the resin instructions.  I did this by bringing the measurement up to the 1 tsp. line (1/2 tsp. + 1/2 tsp. = 1 tsp.).  With so much to pay attention to, I forgot to write down the weight of the hardener, so this is where I gave up the camera.

After turning on my timer, I stirred the mixture.  While stirring, I paid attention to the bubbles.  These little cups that come with the resin kit have the measurement lines as part of the design of the cup.  What I am trying to convey is they are raised lines on the inside of the cup.  That actually adds to the bubbles.  Every time my stir stick hit one of those lines or bumps, bubbles would appear in the mixture.  Now another possible solution to the bubble problem becomes clear:  Get measuring cups without bumps!

During the 2 minutes of stirring, the mixture went cloudy and then clarified.  This mixture was then poured into a clean cup and stirred with a clean stick for another 1 minute.  I tried to get as many bubbles out of the mixture while it was still in the cup.

I received another surprise as I began to pour.  Even though this batch was started with the same measurement as the failed rubbery batch (1 tsp. of resin), it did not make 4 complete jewels.  In fact, it only made 2 whole jewels plus a partial of another.  Once poured, I used a toothpick to try and get as many of the air bubbles out as I could.  I need to get that heat gun ordered so I can try that for bubble raising and bursting.  Lastly, I poured rubbing alcohol into my measuring cups to clean them out.  Something that is mentioned in passing is that liquid resin can be cleaned up with rubbing alcohol, so if one gets to the measuring cups quick enough, they can be cleaned out and used again.  This is good news for the future purchase of permanent cups, as mentioned above.

Now that the jewels are set up, they should be able to be removed in 12 hours.  I'm not sure I will be awake in 12 hours, so it may wait until tomorrow afternoon sometime.  Once I have them out, I will create a new post with the results.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture. Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Devcon 2 Ton®

The last of my four glues to test is Devcon 2 Ton® epoxy.  The instructions start out recommending to roughen THEN clean the surfaces.  This is the first product to put those two steps in the correct order.

Done (before and after pictures, respectively).  The next instruction is to use the caps to puncture the tips.  This really doesn't need photos, does it?  Then, one is to squeeze a drop out of each tube so that the drops are the same size.  I thought I would be smart and use my jeweler's scale, which goes down to thousandths of a gram.  Unfortunately, a drop of resin weighs less than that, so I had to visually approximate the two drops.  This is to be thoroughly mixed and then applied to "surface(s)."  This is a bit ambiguous.  Am I supposed to apply the epoxy to both pieces, or are they suggesting multiple repairs?  I chose the former . . .

. . . but used too much.  If I end up using the epoxy technique, there is going to be a lot of waste.  Another advantage of the epoxy method is a cure time of only 12 hours instead of 24 or 72, as with the other products.  In 12 hours, then, I should be back from work and able to test this seal, and you can see the results of the test here.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture. Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Glass, Metal & More™

The next glue I am testing is the Glass, Metal & More™, another Beacon product.  Reading the instructions on the package make it seem oversimplistic, and they are.  There is no instruction for puncturing the tip of the tube, but that needs to be done.  Even the instructions on the tube say nothing about puncturing the tip.  In fact, the instructions on the tube are somewhat different from the instructions on the package.  How thoughtful of them to make using their product confusing.  Apparently, it breaks down to the steps already used with previous glues.

The tube recommends clean, dry surfaces, so I prepped the pieces with alcohol.  Both the tube and the package recommend sanding shiny surfaces.

Done (before and after pictures, respectively).

As you might be able to tell from this picture, the tube cap has a spear inside it.  I deduced this was present to puncture the top of the tube, and I was correct.  The spear punctured the tube quite efficiently.  The next instruction is to place a small amount of glue on only one of the pieces.

And done, although with possibly a little too much glue . . .

. . . as you can see from the overflow squeezing out of the side.  Since this is my initial test, I am going to leave that there.  Maybe I should have wiped it off.  When I looked at the picture, I noticed the finding was not centered.  I went over to it to take a look.  The finding had slid over to one side of the jewel.  I re-centered it, pressed it down firmly, and wiped up the excess glue.  I hope it doesn't move around again.

Of note, this is the worst smelling of the glues I have tried so far.  It is even burning my sinuses a bit, and this is in a room with the window wide open.  Unless this is the best glue in the world, I will probably not select this one for my projects.

This glue is supposed to rest for 24 hours.  At that time, I will check on it and add to this post.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture. Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

E6000®

The next glue I decided to test is the E6000®.  This glue is highly recommended by people not happy with E600®.  The first instruction is have a clean, dry, dirt-free surface; so I wiped the finding and the acrylic jewel with rubbing alcohol.  For best results, it is recommended to roughen the surfaces.  I am going to use 320 grit very fine sandpaper for this purpose.

Done (before and after pictures, respectively).  The finding was simple to do because I did could do the entire disk.  The jewel, however, received scratches far beyond the area I was gluing.  I will have to find a way to sand a smaller area of the jewel.

The next instruction is to apply a thin coat of glue to each surface.  This proved to be a bit of a hassle due to the gel-like consistency of the product and a lack of a how-to on accomplishing this. Therefore, I simply used the glue tube's snout as a spreading device and wiped it clean afterwards.  As the product is clear, I felt photographing this would not really reveal much.  Lastly, one must wait 2 minutes before pressing the pieces together.

And done.  As you can see, there was almost no run out by squeezing the two pieces together.  The item is supposed to sit for 24-72 hours to cure, so sometime after that I will update this post with the results.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture. Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Beacon Gem-Tac™

The first glue I decided to test is the Gem-Tac™.  I am not sure why the jewelry making book recommended a fabric glue, but I am going to give it a shot.  Maybe there is a Gem-Tec™ for jewelry, too, and I just ordered the wrong one.  (Crap, why did I think of that now?)  This is the only glue of the four I am testing that does not recommend roughening of the surfaces.

The first instruction is to remove the cap and puncture the tip.  I did this with a long sewing needle and thimble.  It then states surfaces should be "clean and free from dust," so I wiped the finding and the acrylic jewel with alcohol.  Next is to apply a small amount of glue to the surface.

Done.  Lastly is to "gently position without pressing."

And done.  The bottle says to allow 24 hours to dry.  In 24 hours, then, I will finish the test and update this post.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture. Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

Stuck on glue

As part of a jewelry project, I needed information on glues to use.  I received no response to my question on Facebook, so I went ahead and researched it myself.  It seems there is no real consensus on the best glue to use to glue acrylic resin to metal findings.  Therefore, I decided to buy several and test.  Here are the glues I chose to start with.

E600® was recommended by several sources, and trashed by just as many other sources.  Unfortunately, I could not locate it, even on Amazon.  While at Hobby Lobby, I came across E6000®, which I had heard about.  A number of people who complained about E600® recommended E6000® instead, so I decided to give it a try.  The package claims, "E6000® is a unique adhesive formulated to meet high-performance industrial requirements, making it an exceptional adhesive for any craft project. Washer/dryer safe."  Well, that washer/dryer safe thing is good to know.  The label also claims it bonds to fabric, metal, wood, glass, ceramic, and more.  This product is made in the USA.

One book on resin jewelry making specifically recommended Beacon Gem-Tac™.  The package claims, "GEM-TAC bonds embelishments to many surfaces including fabric, wood, glass, plastic, and more."  This already puts it behind E6000® because it does not mention metal and I am using metal findings.  Unlike the E6000®, the Gem-Tac™ is supposed to dry clear.&nbnsp; This product is also made in the USA.

Another book recommended Devcon® 2 Ton® epoxy.  As an epoxy, this is a 2-part system, so there is increased chance of error.  The package claims, "A clear, extremely strong, non-shrinking adhesive, specially formulated for high-clarity and good impact strength. Waterproof. Resists salt solution, unleaded gasoline, mineral spirits, oil, and anti-freeze."  The list of materials includes acrylic, china, fiberglass, metal, wood, concrete, ceramic, and glass.  This is the first of the products to list both acrylic and metal, something to keep in mind when gluing casted acrylic resin to metal jewelry findings.  This product is also made in the USA.

The last recommended glue (and I promise to in the future include the references) is Glass, Metal & More™.  The label claims, "Glass, Metal & More is a super strong glue for bonding glass, plastics, most metals, mirrors, canvas, rubber and many other hard-to-hold materials. Glass, Metal & More dries clear & flexible, and is ideal for outdoor applications, home, and marine repairs."  (The package's punctuation errors; not mine.)  Materials listed are glass, metal, mosaics, canvas, most plastic, and more.  It seems the United States still at least manufactures glues, as this product is also from the USA.

The 2 Ton® sounds like it will be the best product to use for my purpose.  However, the E6000® would be easier to use and is more readily available.  All of the products recommend sanding the surfaces before applying any glue, so I have to search my apartment for some sandpaper.  If I find it, I will proceed on to glue applications.

All pictures have a larger view if you click on them.  Also, I welcome your constructive criticism.