Showing posts with label truffles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label truffles. Show all posts

Sunday, May 11, 2014

Classic Truffles, attempt #1

The initial ganache recipe I went with was the one on About.com.  I made some adjustments to their ingredient list due to not having enough chocolate.
Equipment List:
  • baking sheet
  • aluminum foil OR parchment paper
  • wire whisk
  • plastic wrap
  • serrated sharp knife OR food chopper
  • microwave-safe cup and a microwave OR kettle and a range top
  • instant-read cooking thermometer
  • measuring cup and measuring spoon
  • plate OR pie tin
  • sieve
  • mixing bowl
  • teaspoon OR small disher
  • plastic or vinyl disposable gloves
Ingredients:
  • 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate
  • ½ cup heavy whipping cream
  • ½ tsp. vanilla extract
  • ½ cup cocoa powder
Directions:
  1. Using the serrated sharp knife or food chopper, chop chocolate.
  2. Place chocolate in a mixing bowl.
  3. Measure ½ cup of heavy whipping cream
  4. If using a microwave, pour cream into microwave-safe cup.
    If using a range top, pour cream into kettle.
  5. Scald the cream (180°-185°F).
  6. Pour warmed cream into center of chocolate.
  7. Allow to stand 1 minute.
  8. Stir with the wire whisk until chocolate is completely melted.
  9. Stir in the vanilla extract.
  10. Allow to cool to room temperature.
  11. Place plastic wrap directly on top of ganache.
  12. Store in refrigerator until stiff (≈2 hours).
  13. In the meantime, line baking sheet with aluminum foil or parchment paper.
  14. Take ganache out of refrigerator.
  15. Using teaspoon or disher, scoop up some ganache.
  16. While wearing plastic or vinyl gloves, roll scooped ganache between palms to form into a ball.
  17. Place on prepared pan.
  18. Repeat scooping and rolling until ganache is used up.
  19. Put pan in refrigerator for 1 hour.
  20. In the meantime, use a sieve to sift the cocoa powder onto plate or pie tin.
  21. Take truffles out of refrigerator.
  22. Roll a truffle in cocoa powder on plate.
  23. Bounce this truffle in sieve to knock off excess cocoa powder.
  24. Place back onto baking sheet.
  25. Repeat rolling and bouncing on all truffles.
  26. Store finished truffles in an air-tight container in the refrigerator OR consume them all and don't worry about it.
The chocolate I chose was Guittard.  This is supposed to be one of the high-end brands and was available on sale at Sprouts.
Here is the chocolate after three short bursts in my Ninja® Food Chopper.
I used this organic cream because it was less expensive than the others at the time.  I measured ½ cup into a glass measuring cup.  {I later discovered that I should mathematically have used slightly less due to the recipe size change.}  Since I know the scalding temperature of cream is 180°-185°F, I decided to go with my microwave and instant-read thermometer.  I ran the microwave in 30-second increments, stirring and taking temperature after each round.  It only took two rounds to get into the 170s.  I ran the microwave for 5 more seconds, and the temperature was 181.2°F.  I poured this into the chocolate and allowed it to stand before stirring with the whisk.  I did not whisk, as I would for scrambled eggs; I slowly stirred, attempting to combine the cream and the chocolate.  When it looked like all the chocolate was melted, I added the ½ tsp. vanilla extract.
It kind of looked and felt like a chocolate pudding.  The recipe said to cover with plastic wrap, but I could not find any in my apartment, so I pressed a freezer bag on top of the ganache and put it in the fridge, setting a timer for 2 hours for it to harden.  In the meantime, I lined a baking sheet with aluminum foil and sifted my cocoa powder . . .
. . . going from lumpy to powdery in the process.  I also chose to use my #70 disher, as this was the same disher I was using on the cake truffles.
The chilled ganache came out of the refrigerator, I put on some non-powdered vinyl gloves, and I set about rolling truffles.  I'm glad I used the disher and the gloves.  The ganache was pretty solid, so the disher cut through it nicely.  The chocolate got all over the gloves and the disher.  It became very hard to hold the disher handle due to the amount of chocolate oil on the gloves.
The resulting pan of truffles was put in the refrigerator for an hour to get them stiff again.   I was a little disappointed that I got only 20 truffles.  Cost-wise, I spent about $6 on ingredients, so each truffle is worth about 30¢, not counting labor.  {I'll have to time this process next round.}  After their hour of fridge time, the truffles were rolled in the sifted powdered cocoa.
I now have a pan of truffles to try.  Well, I had a pan of truffles.  I tried one and learned three things:  They should be sifted again after being dusted with cocoa powder or one will inhale cocoa powder upon eating them, the cocoa powder needs to be just as high-end as the chocolate inside, and the chocolate wasn't chopped fine enough or the cream wasn't hot enough to melt all the chocolate.

I put four truffles into a freezer bag and put them in the freezer, and I put four into a glass jar and vacuum sealed them before putting them in the freezer, too.  The rest don’t really need to be kept in the refrigerator for freshness.  All the germs were already killed when the cream was scalded.  However, they do not maintain their stiffness without the chill, so they must be cold stored or immediately consumed.  I put some of them into an air-tight Rubbermaid® Glass container and left one on the counter at 7:39 p.m. to see what would happen.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say “No” or have a number in front of it.

Classic Truffles, definition and construction

Before making my first ganache truffles, I wanted to go through my research and get some things straight in my mind and, by association, this blog.

When I talk about classic truffles, I am referring to ganache-filled truffles.  Why?  The story of the first truffles dates from 1895 (Giovannangeli); and the ingredients are limited to fresh cream, cocoa powder, vanilla, and chocolate.  In fact, several other researchers insist the definition of truffle include ganache-filled (Haefner).  Therefore, to my mind and blog, a classic truffle is ganache-filled.

What, then, constitutes the recipe of a classic truffle?  To make a classic truffle, one must make a ganache.  A ganache is a combination of hot cream and chocolate with the addition of flavorings in the form of spices, extracts, and/or liqueurs.  Ganache was invented somewhere between 1850 and 1920, depending on the source.  At this point, I can offer no print evidence of ganache-filled truffle recipes.  Modern recipes range from the simple chocolate, cream, and vanilla (Franklin) to the complex cream, fruit juice, butter, egg yolks, sugar, and chocolate of my culinary school textbook (Gisslen).  An additional thing to remember is there are different consistencies of ganache used for three different purposes:  Filling, Truffles, and Glazing.  Each one has a different ratio of cream to chocolate.

My next choice is to pick a recipe as my starting point.  I've decided to begin with the LaBau recipe due to the similarity of ingredients to the original 1895 creation.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say “No” or have a number in front of it.

References:
Franklin, Rebecca. "How To Make Ganache." About.com French Food. About.com, n.d. Web. 11 May 2014. <http://frenchfood.about.com/od/frenchcookingtechniques/ss/howtoganache.htm>.

Giovannangeli, Françoise, ed. “Dark Chocolate Truffles with Cognac and Orange Extract.” ChocoParis. www.chocoparis.com, 2 Jan. 2011. Web. 25 Dec. 2013. <http://www.chocoparis.com/2011/01/dark-chocolate-truffles-with-cognac-and-orange-extract/>.

Gisslen, Wayne. Professional Baking. 5th ed. Hoboken, N.J: John Wiley, 2009. Print.

Haefner, Karl. “What I Didn't Know I Didn't Know about Truffles.” Bright 'N' Squirrelly. Karl Haefner. 25 Dec. 2013. Web. 11 May 2014. <http://brightnsquirrelly.blogspot.com/2013/12/what-i-didnt-know-i-didnt-know-about_25.html>.

LaBau, Elizabeth. "How to Make Truffles Tutorial." About.com Candy. About.com, 2008. Web. 11 May 2014. .

McMahon, Mary. "What is Ganache?" wiseGEEK. Conjecture Corporation, 11 May 2014. Web. 11 May 2014. <http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-ganache.htm>.

Thursday, May 8, 2014

Exploration of Velvet Cake

At one point, I don't really remember why now, I wanted to find the history of red velvet cake.  My research pointed me to a recipe in the The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book of 1896, which is affectionately known as the original Fannie Farmer cookbook due to her being the author.  It contains the oldest printed recipe for velvet cake that I have come across.  Of note, it is not a “red” velvet cake.  My curiosity turned to what makes the cake “velvet”.

First, then, I decided to compare the velvet cake to a regular cake recipe of that period (Farmer).  Here is a comparison of ingredients:

Velvet Cake Chocolate Cake
½ cup butter ½ butter
1½ cups sugar 1 cup sugar
4 eggs, separated yolks & whites 2 small eggs, separated yolks & whites
½ cup cold water ½ cup milk
1½ cups flour 1frac13; cups flour
½ cup cornstarch None
4 tsp. baking powder 2½ tsp. baking powder
⅓ cup shredded blanched almonds None
None 2 oz. chocolate, melted
None ½ tsp. vanilla

The table above reveals the differences in ingredients.  The velvet cake uses more egg, more flour, more baking powder, water instead of milk, cornstarch, and almonds {used as a topping (Farmer 423)}, whereas the chocolate cake adds vanilla extract.

The instructions also differ.  They both start by creaming butter, adding sugar and well-beaten egg yolks.  For the chocolate cake, the egg whites are beaten stiff then added followed by the milk and the sifted flour/baking powder.  The velvet cake adds the egg whites later, proceeding by adding the water and the sifted flour/cornstarch/baking powder.  Finally, the egg whites are beaten stiff and added.

We can surmise from these differences that the velvet cake will be much fluffier than the chocolate cake.  The extra baking powder will add more gas, and the egg whites will not have been beaten down because they were added last.  Where, then, did the red come in?

I attempted to find my previous research to no avail, so I hit the Ætherweb and came across a wonderfully detailed history of red velvet cake.  It seems velvet cake exists in two different timelines.

The first timeline is of the velvet cake.  Avey lists an earlier source for Victorian velvet cake recipes, which comes from the August 1871 issue of The New Dominion Monthly.  It reads:
Velvet Cake.--One pound of sugar, one pound of flour, half a pound of butter, four eggs, one teacup of cold water, one teaspoon of cream of tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda.  Flavor with extract of lemon.  Beat the sugar and butter to a white cream, dissolve the soda in the water, and sift the cream of tartar into the flour, mixing thoroughly.  Add to the butter and sugar the pound of flour and the water; beat it all well.  Beat the eggs--the yolks first, and then the whites--to a stiff froth; beat them together for a minute, and stir into the cake.  Flavor with a teaspoonful of extract of lemon, and beat the cake well for about three minutes.  Bake an hour.  This will make two loaves, and is the nicest cake I know of--better than pound cake.  It may be flavored with nutmeg and spices, or with raisins and currants, or be made into delicious chocolate cake by being baked in layers, and filled with chocolate frosting.  It makes a nice jelly cake. (“The Home”)
As we can see from this recipe, the thought of putting chocolate into the cake batter had not yet occurred.  This cake has the same qualities as the 1896 velvet cake, although a few technique changes have come along.  The red color attributed to velvet cake came as a chemical reaction (Avey) between early chocolates {which did not use alkali}, an acidic liquid {like buttermilk}, and an alkali {baking soda}.  Reviewing the two Victorian recipes, there are only two potential acidic ingredients:  extract of lemon and cream of tartar (Weston).  I now have the ingredients for an initial trial of true red velvet cake.  Meanwhile . . .

In the other timeline, the red velvet cake that we associate with that name has a completely different history.  According to Avey, a red chocolate cake was created at the Waldorf Astoria in 1959 and was simply called “Waldorf Red Cake”.  The “velvet” was added by a supermarket chain in the 1960, and the rest is urban legend history (Avey).

Conclusion:  Modern red velvet cake is not a true velvet cake because it includes food coloring and dairy product and does not separate the eggs.  True velvet cake was probably never red because I have no evidence as of yet to show Victorians put acids in their chocolate cakes.

So, why did I tag this post as “truffles”?  Because the cake truffles can be made with any cake batter, and it was an interesting exercise to see if I could come up with red velvet truffles from scratch.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say “No” or have a number in front of it.

References:
Avey, Tori. "American Cakes - Red Velvet Cake." Tori Avey. ToryAvey.com, 9 Feb. 2014. Web. 8 May 2014. <http://toriavey.com/history-kitchen/2014/02/red-velvet-cake-history-recipe/>.

Farmer, Fannie M. "Cake." The Original Fannie Farmer 1896 Cook Book. Italy: Ottenheimer Publishers, Inc., 1998. 420, 423. Print.

"The Home: Selected Recipes." New Dominion Monthly Part II - July to December Inclusive. Montreal, Canada: J. Dougall & Son, 1871. 124. Print.

Weston, Nicole. "What is cream of tartar?" Baking Bites®. N.p., 1 July 2008. Web. 8 May 2014. <http://bakingbites.com/2008/07/what-is-cream-of-tartar/>.

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Dairy-free cake batter truffles

Well, it finally came up on my to-do list to get back to work on my cake batter truffles.  In order to be able to sell them under the Colorado Cottage Foods Law, I had to remove anything that requires refrigeration.  This included the butter and the milk.  The butter was a pretty easy replacement:  Simply exchange one oil for another.  I chose sunflower oil for its neutral taste and ability to be used to make chocolate coatings.

The milk replacement turned out to be trickier because milk substitutes also require refrigeration.  While looking at coconut milks, I came across only one (Kroger brand) that did not have a "refrigerate after opening" disclaimer.  The ingredients were coconut cream, water, and xanthan gum.  This gave me the opening to try the cake truffles again.  The odd thing is using 2 tbsp. of coconut milk resulted in a drier product than using 2 tbsp. of dairy milk.  I had to add another tablespoon of coconut milk to get the mixture to properly doughify.
Here they are rolled into little truffle balls.  They do have a nice creamy mouth feel, but there is still the crunch of granulated sugar.  Maybe I should replace the granulated sugar with confectioner's sugar.  I will have to try that on my next batch.  According to Betty Crocker®, I can replace 1 cup of sugar with 1¾ cups of confectioner's sugar.

The pictures on the page appear smaller than they are.  To see them larger, simply double click on the picture.  Also, I always welcome your constructive criticism.  Click on the Comment link below next to the icon of a pencil; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.

References:
kolson. "Can I substitute powdered sugar for granulated sugar?" Betty Crocker®. General Mills, 4 June 2013. Web. 6 May 2014. <http://askbetty.bettycrocker.com/Can-I-substitute-powdered-sugar-granulated-sugar-q18384.aspx>.

So, what is a chocolate truffle?

Over the 3 years I have been researching truffles, the definition of what a truffle is keeps changing, as do the sources of the information.  This is what I believe at this time.  A true truffle center should be whipping cream combined with chocolate to make a ganache, which can be flavored with extracts and/or liqueurs.  The ganache is then rolled into balls and coated with chocolate and possibly other things, such as cocoa powder and ground nuts.  It has now gotten to the point, however, where any bite-size candy is called a truffle regardless of the contents and/or coatings.

For this portion of my blog, truffle will remain a ball-shaped confection (I do not call it a candy because candy involves boiled sugar.), although the ingredients and coatings may not be traditional.

As always, I welcome your comments.  Click on the Comment link below; it may say "No" or have a number in front of it.